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Mario's Chiquita
If there's one thing you can count on at Mario's Chiquita, it's quality. The charming setting, warm service and excellent food make this a good bet anytime. And the specialty dishes are out-of-the-ordinary good. CHIP IN: Complimentary chips are greaseless and thin; excellent salsa is spiked with plenty of jalapeño and afloat with clipped cilantro. FIE ON FAT GRAMS: Appetizers are consistently good here. Guacamole is a mild and creamy version. The spark comes from cilantro and onion, rather than jalapeño, which can overwhelm avocado. "Queso flameado" is a large saucer of melted white cheese with a dollop of what looks like ranchero sauce or salsa in the middle. Your waiter will make a pretty show of blending the cheese and sauce, then will spoon it into the middle of a flawless, lightly grilled flour tortilla, roll it up like a crepe and presented it to you on a separate plate. IN THE MIDDLE: You're safe whether you go for Tex-Mex or interior Mex here. "Filete de la casa" is a perfect filet mignon plugged with garlic buds and jalapeño. The accompanying enchilada, made with a soft, white cheese, is bathed in a lovely ranchero sauce, and slices of boiled potato are topped with fresh parsley. Also recommended: "Carnitas rancheras" - bite-size pieces of fragrant pork stir-fried with tiny bits of jalapeño, onions and tomatoes. The Leticia is the best sort of Tex-Mex: two plump tamales and an oversize cheese enchilada covered in a good chile sauce (with niblets of beef) and melted cheeses.
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